Whites

Wines to Pair with the 2020 Golden State Warriors

Feeling a little behind on the Warriors squad this season? I got you. Need a wine to pair with every player? Well I got you on that, too.

Wines to Pair with the 2020 Golden State Warriors:

Willie Cauley-Stein- Center

Let’s ignore the fact that Willie Cauley-Stein looks like every boy I wanted to bring home in my twenties, and talk about his game. He’s turned the Warriors defensive woes on their head as of late, blocking shots, using his height as a stealthy weapon and proving himself a defender across the court. This extra playing time is only fueling the fire for his shooting game, and when Steph and Klay get healthy, we get to see how well Cauley-Stein plays with others.

For a guy like Willie Cauley-Stein, we need a wine with funk enough to stand up to those braids and sick face tattoos, plus a good amount of structure to match his defensive game. I’m going 2018 Alfredo Maestro ‘Lovamor’ Albillo Mayor from the town of Peñafiel in Castilla y León. The Lovamor’s got all the aroma and flavor- orchard fruits and white flowers pop out of this deeply colored vino blanco, balanced by the minerals and acidity so rampant in Alfredo’s wines. 7 days on the skins makes way for a tannic backbone and dark orange hue. Enjoy with cured meats and hot neck tattoos. 

Eric Paschall- Power Forward 

This 2nd round draft pick Villanova power forward got a pretty sweet deal coming to the Dubs. And rightfully so, with back to back 25 point games and that glorious win over a smack-talking Damian Lillard and the Trail Blazers. Not to mention he’s hit double digits in his last three games. Sure, a sore hip and an early surge in recognition has left him a little spasmodic as of late, but like any young Power Forward, Paschall is busting ass and taking names with the best of em. 

Eric Paschall’s power forward moves call for a fruit-driven, power forward wine from the Priorat. The 2016 Família Nin-Ortiz ‘Planetes de Nin’ from the schist soils of Porrera is muscley and young for a wine of its stature. The fruit is deep, the minerals are deep and the structure is strong but manageable. It’s organic and bio-d and made by a power couple in the steep slopes of the Priorat. Best part is, it can only get better with age. 

Glenn Robinson III- Small Forward

Despite a couple rough performances, GRIII is doing a solid job with the warriors. He’s analytical, strategic and can break down a play like Kurtis Blow can break down a beat. GRIII is concerned less with living up to his father’s 2-time All-Star “Big Dog” status, and more to building his own solid reputation as a Warrior. He face-times his daughter every morning, he loves his mom and I like to imagine he helps old women across the street cuz he’s just that type of guy. Keep plugging along, GRIII, you got this. 

For the complex analytics of GRIII, I’m drinking the 2017 Alberto Orte ‘Atlántida Blanco.’ The Atlántida is made from Vijireiga (aka Sumoll Blanc) clippings Alberto took from the Canary Islands and planted to chalky albariza soils on a seaside plot in Jerez. This wine is complex as all get down. It has body, bright citrus, a little honey and white flower. It changes every time you put your nose in the glass. The intensity and curves are met with good acidity and that chalky, salty quality only found in the wines of Cádiz. Kurtis Blow approved.

D’Angelo Russell- Shooting Guard

D’Angelo Russell returned after a 6 game absence Sunday to give us a magical bucket show against the Memphis Grizzlies. Yes, we still lost, but hopes of putting up those points we’ve been so desperately missing are getting brighter by the moment. And maybe his defensive woes are a microcosm of what plagues the entire team this season, but his baskets and his swagger are a welcome device. Let’s keep giving this kid his playing time and get a little excitement rolling through the Chase Center again. 

D’Angelo Russell needs an easy going, smooth operator like the 2017 Súcces Vinícola ‘La Cuca de Llum’ Trepat from Conca de Barberà. All stainless steel, fermented on wild yeasts and made by a perfectly lovely couple near the coasts of the Mediterranean. Pretty and aromatic, red fruit, a little pepper and spice. All points, all magic, very little defense. Yum.  

Damien Lee- Shooting Guard

Damien Lee just signed a three year deal with the Warriors, and is expected to be on the court tonight for tonight’s game against the Nuggets. Just in time for my arrival at the Chase Center. Lee is a solid player, the lead shooting guard and can only get better now that a spot on the Golden State roster is official. Lee also happens to be Steph Curry’s brother in law, which means at Christmas they wear matching pajamas. It also means the Curry/Lee duo is about to take the Warriors shooting game to a whole new level once Steph gets healthy. I for one, cannot wait. 

We all know Damien Lee is more than just Steph Curry’s brother-in-law, but I say we get comfy, grab our fuzzy christmas tree jammies and pretend we’re in Curry family Christmas just this once. For all the warm fuzzies in this cold winter weather, I’m pouring a glass of the Quinta Milú ‘La Cometa.’ This small ops wine from Burgos is what a Ribera del Duero Tempranillo should actually taste like. Red and black berries, body, tannin and lift. This is a wine from Ribera del Duero that is actually primary, rather than plagued by a barrel. Plus winemaker, Germán Blanco would definitely wear matching jammies. Welcome to the Warriors, Lee. Let’s roll.

Blogged At: My Condo, East Oakland

Soundtrack: Kurtis Blow, Basketball 

The Friday Study Sesh: Mas Candí ‘Baudili’

This Week’s Wine:

2017 Mas Candí ‘Baudili’

  • Region: Alt Penedès, Spain
  • DO: Penedès
  • Varietal: Xarel.lo, Parellada
  • How it’s Made: All stainless, co-fermented, 6 months on the lees
  • Farming and Such: Organic, some bio D. Zero chemicals, zero herbicides, zero pesticides 

Let’s Roll…

Celler Mas Candí happened when Ramon Jané and his wife, Mercí Cuscó got together with the homie, Toni Carbó and decided to bottle some wine. The Mas Candí vineyards had been farmed organically by Ramon’s family for over 500 years, but in 2006 Ramon and squad decided to stop selling berries to the masses and actually make some delicious wine out of them. They are certainly catalysts for the ideology of clean, natural and organic winemaking in the Penedès. They’ve moved out of the Cava DO, they’ve moved into the Corpinnat* and their wines are clear examples of what old vine Xarel.lo and indigenous varieties of the region can embody.

Mas Candí grows vines in the Alt Penedès sub region of the Penedès. Many consider Alt Penedès to be the best subregion of the three subregions in the area to grow and vinify cava varietals, and it is home to some of the more culty cava producers like Recaredo and Raventós. Vineyards can reach 500-800 meters in altitude, generally higher than those of the Baix or Mitja Penedès. Wines benefit from the cooler temperatures and access to the breeze off that delightful Mediterranean Sea. Conditions here are so fly, in fact, the Alt Penedès has proven to be the perfect region to pump out natural wine, and Mas Candí has certainly risen to that occasion.

The Mas Candí team has a couple of side projects, or labels if you will. The Baudili is actually now part of the Viticultor Ramon Jané label, a project for zero zero wines that steer less toward the classic style of the Penedès and more toward the totes natch (natural), highly chuggable and properly complex. The Viticultor Ramon Jané wines grow from the Garraf Mountain coastal ridge, still in the Alt Penedès but closer to the Garraf Massif- a coastal mountain range with cliffs leading all the way to the Mediterranean Sea. Vineyards are around 250-300 meters in altitude and benefit from diurnal shifts and that delightful Mediterranean Sea breeze (it’s so delightful I’ve said it twice). 

Pro Tip- If you are familiar with the wines, the Tinc Set ‘Ancestral’ is actually the same juice used in the Baudili. The Ancestral has the sparkle, the Baudili has the chill. 

Soils of the region are clay calcareous-calcareous an adjective referring to something that is made up in part or whole of calcium carbonate and referring to limestone and chalk. Calcareous soils remain at cooler temperatures, helpful in those hot Catalan summers. Calcareous soils tend to produce more sap in the vines, offer low sugar and high acidity in the berries and have a higher ph level (nerd shit) which, among 100 scientific things, can lower yields and offer up some nutrients. Clay calcareous soils retain water, grapes ripen slower, flavor and acidity are higher and blam- Mas Candí ‘Baudili’ is born.

To the grapes!

Xarel.lo (schar-ell-lo) is a light skinned grape widely planted in Catalunya and most famous for existing as one of the three main varieties in Cava production. When made properly, Xarel.lo has super textural powers, with flavors and aromas of white flowers, lanolin, stone fruit, lime blossom and lemon. Its acidity is fire, and should you know what you are doing you are free to throw it an almost any vessel and watch it shine. It is a shape shifter, like Chardonnay (or the Kwisatz Haderach), and will bend and mold depending on its terruño. I often offer Xarel.lo to guests wanting Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay or simply a wine with both texture and minerality. 

Parellada is also a light skinned grape not really found anywhere outside Catalunya. It is one of the three main grapes used in Cava, and has rarely been known in the past to be used as still wine, much less a varietal one. It brings green apple and flower blossom to the party, cutting into the richness and adding an extra layer of acidity. It grows best in cool climates and is best left to those who pay attention to its character. Some say it is the most complex of the three Cava varietals. It’s certainly the sharpest tack in the bunch.

Tasting Notes: White flower, jasmine, lanolin. On the palate some stonefruit and white flowers, waxy. Some apple vibes. Pale yellow color, unfiltered, delicious AF. Acidity high, mostly fruit some savor and herbs.

*The Corpinnat is a fairly specific classification for the méthode champenoise style sparklers of the Penedès- aka Cava. Baudili is still wine, so let’s not get into all this today.

Blogged At: My Condo, East Oakland

Soundtrack: Oakland A’s vs Houston Astros at home. We got the win- 10 runs scored in total, all homeruns- nuts. 

 

The Friday Study Sesh

Blind tasting is a fun, possibly interactive way to sharpen your skills, show off to your friends and remind yourself you have absolutely no idea what you are doing. In an effort to blind taste, to study and to write like a boss bitch, I’m dubbing this series of blog posts “The Friday Study Sesh.” I blind three wines from my ‘by the glass’ list at Bellota, take the one that throws me off the hardest and study, taste and write about it for the next seven days. Until it’s time to ‘study sesh’ all over again. Guest participation and feedback always welcome.

This week’s wine: 2018 Benito Santos ‘Ingrexario de Saiar’ 

  • Region: Galicia 
  • Subregion: Rías Baixas (Val do Salnés)
  • Varietal: Albariño 
  • How it’s Made: Vinified in tank with a few months of lees aging and minimal sulfur additions
  • Farming and Such: Certified organic

Let’s Roll.

Could a Spanish wine person blinding albariño as Navarra viura be considered embarrassing? Probably. The thing is I’ve actually been in Val do Salnés. I’ve sat outside a tiny bar in Cambados drinking the house albariño, munching on the house chips and contemplating whether or not to tell a boy of my unfeigned love and lechery for him- not a far cry from my last Friday night. So let’s cut the crap, study up some Benito Santos and resolve never to be wrong again.

The Benito Santos ‘Ingrexario de Saiar’ is grown in organic, granitic soil, fermented with native yeasts and left to spend a few months on the lees. It comes correct with melon, orange blossom, lemon and orchard fruit flavors and aromas, plus a slight bitterness on the palate. It maintains a good amount of texture, while flashing salinity and that touch of electricity that seemingly comes with sandy, granitic soils. 

Fundamentally, albariño is a salty, fruity white wine created to wash down freshly dug clams in an oceanside bar while deliberating love in one of the most beautiful places on the planet. As a scientific being, albariño is high in acidity and light in body, with medium plus fruit and medium minus alcohol. Its fierce aromatics keep your nose in the glass for longer than expected- a result of its high terpenes and thiols. Common aromas consist of melons, lemons, limes, orchard fruit and grapefruit, with the occasional beeswax and herbal vibe. Flavors typically match the aromas, adding a little salt and a slightly bitter element to the glass.

Albariño’s origins are debated, as are the origins of many Galego varietals thought to either be indigenous to Galicia or a result of the Camino de Santiago. Either way, albariño has staked its claim as the grape of Rías Baixas. It accounts for over 90% of the wine grown in the region and is well suited to the conditions of the salty Atlantic. 

Rías Baixas is interesting region in that it is not one solid area of land, but five subregions that make up the whole DO. Benito Santos is from a subregion called Val do Salnés, the original and oldest sub-region of the five. With the most area under vine, Val do Salnés pumps out the most wine in all of Rías Baixas. It sits right on the Atlantic Ocean, and besides a few hot, fiery summer weeks it gets rained upon constantly. It is generally wetter and foggier than even The Sunset used to be. The soil is granitic and rocky with alluvial top-soil, a considerable contribution to the wine’s high acidity and distinctive aromas. Vineyards are planted in the pergola style on hills or valley floors. Vines in the sandier, more coastal reaches can be over 160 years old, predating phylloxera. Most of the top wineries live in Val do Salnés. Benito Santos, Alberto Nanclares, Pedralonga and Do Ferreiro are just a few among a flock of the more well known producers. 

Val do Salnés sits on the lower banks of the Umia River and surrounds the small fishing town of Cambados, where large groups of seafood collectors, mostly women, occupy the beaches at low tide to scoop cockles, clams and any other sea creatures that can be found living or crawling through the sand. Brightly painted fishing boats line simple harbors, and the fish market is packed 6 days a week. Albariño is aptly referred to by the locals as “the wine of the sea,” and is the queen of this salty, bright, dreamy little part of Galicia, Spain.

 

Benito Santos ‘Ingrexario de Saiar’ Tasting Notes 7.19- Dryer sheet, grapefruit, orange blossom, a little shut off. Palate is stone fruit, pears, grapefruit, granite, some salty vibes and a good amount of texture…thinking viura…

(I just tasted this wine again and the aromas of melon, stone fruit and orange blossom are popping out the glass. 7.19 Could have been a root day.) Still salty and slightly bitter. 

 

Blogged at: Mi Casa

Soundtrack: João Gilberto

 

 

Wines to Pair with the NBA Finals: 2019 Edition

It’s that time again. It’s our fifth year in a row in the NBA Finals, my third year in a row of writing this blog post and the Warriors forty-seventh and final year playing in Oakland (boo). The banners are up, my dogs are dressed and we are hella ready to roll. And now:

Wines to Pair with the NBA Finals: 2019 Edition

Sideline Drake

Exit Lebron James and enter Drake, the newest addition to our NBA Finals sideline. This ex-Degrassi star and full time Raptors hype man comes loaded with smack talk and massages, so when he goes 0-100 you’ll want to reach for the perfect wine to ease your frustration. I recommend Alfredo Maestro, ‘Amanda’ rosado. Not only is rosado a perfect intro to the start of a series, the Amanda is fruity, fleshy and complex without getting overly heady. It has the wilds of Draymond and the flex of Iguodala. So sure, sure Drake has knock, but for now you must remember BOTH of his Warriors tattoos, think of his dramatic teenage acting years and get ‘Nice for What’ off your playlists, ya feel me?

Klay Thompson, a National Treasure

With Klay Thompson’s slow start behind him like a ponytail, this National Treasure has been a critical piece in the Warriors trip to the 2019 NBA Finals. Not only did he basically predict this Warriors/Raptors matchup, but his Luis Vuitton vests, his calm hug to Leonard after a burst of profanities and the fact that his mom still buys his clothes are reason enough for me to love him. And we haven’t even talked about his game. So when the Klay shots start coming I suggest you knock back a glass of Sierra de Toloño Blanco Viura, made by Rioja’s own National Treasure, Sandra Bravo. Light and bright, lean and mean, floral and focused like Klay Thompson himself. Bring yourself some extra joy, take down a glass of this fabulous white Rioja and give props to a man who’d rather win an NBA Championship than be third-team All-NBA.

Steph Goes Off

Apologies to my droves of gentlemen callers, but I will never love another man the way I love Steph Curry. And while much of his playoff efforts were watched with one sleepy eye open in the wee hours of a Spanish hotel room, I can’t wait to enjoy those magic deep threes, those elegant layups and that slick little shimmy I hope he shakes out in the Finals. And while it’s a big job to pick a pairing for a player with that much excitement, sophistication and swagger, my vote goes to 2014 Fazenda Prádio ‘BRNCLL.’ This expressive, red fruit-driven, gravelly, graphitey little bastard is 100% Brancellao- high on elegance, packed with finesse and loaded with enough swagger to sit even Drake’s mouthy ass down. And the 2014 is drinking like fire right now. Steph Curry with the shot, boy.

Kawhi Leonard Goes Off

The Raptors are headed to their first NBA Finals in franchise history, and I did not see this one coming. Kawhi’s complete domination of the Greek Freak has left me a little speechless, and possibly a little scared- not to mention Toronto’s home court advantage. So who will he guard? How many rebounds will he get? How many nights will this keep me awake? And what will we drink when he’s scoring over 30 points? Chillax, Erin. Mas Martinet ‘Camí Pesseroles’ is the real answer to every question here. This garnatxa/carinyena blend from the amazing Sara Pérez will hug you from behind like a man in a wool sweater. It’s herbal, earthy, dark and stormy with minerals for days and just the proper amount of structure. It whispers “don’t worry about Kawhi, baby,” and then drifts you off to sleep.

The Big Win

Zero jinxies over here, but let’s win this damn thing and treat the great city of Oakland like it’s meant to be treated. Because no matter how much smack Drake talks, how many rebounds Kawhi busts out or who gets well or sits out, Oakland has hosted this dynasty for 47 amazing years. We’ve watched them lose, we’ve watched them win, we’ve watched them directly after we’ve watched an A’s game. And now I regretfully have to watch them leave for the city of San Francisco. So for this one last win, I’m bringing out the big guns- Los Bermejos ‘Malvasia Volcánica’ Brut Nature. Made on an island that could double as Mars and/or Vulcan, this leezy, honeyed, volcanic little number has the sophistication to please Dr Spock and a dry, mineral palate that pleases me to no end. So chill that bottle down, pop the cork off that sucker and LET’S GO OAKLAND.

 

These wines are mostly all available at Bellota so come drink with me and let’s talk some Oakland sports. Besos.

 

Blogged at: My condo, East Oakland

Soundtrack: 6lack on shuffle (can’t stop)

Wines to Pair with Family: Thanksgiving Edition

If you’re a wino like me, you’ve been inundated with articles about what to drink with Thanksgiving Dinner. And while it’s mildly important to have a good bottle of Pinot Noir with whatever overcooked vegetable your aunt’s girlfriend brought, I find it way more interesting to have a wine for those wildly uncomfortable, highly typical family dynamics we face year after year. So here are a list of wines that pair well with my family dynamics. I hope they work for yours, as well.

Side Dish Prep-

So it’s Thanksgiving morning, you’re at home in your pj’s and you’re trying to figure out that side dish you were asked to bring. For this scenario, I recommend the La Salada ‘Tinct Set’ Ancestral. Ancestral the Spanish term for ‘half the sparkle, all the ambition.’ But don’t look that up. Toni Carbo from Mas Candí and his wife, Anna created the La Salada label for wines grown on generations of his family’s all organic soils in the Penedès. The Tinct Set is bright, light-hearted and fruity. In fact, it’s probably the most light-hearted fun you’ll have all day. Plus that low ABV means you can drink half a bottle while prepping your side dish and the other half while taking a shower. Grandma won’t have a clue.

The Family Greeting-

The day is young, the family still loves each other and no one is gossiping about how much you’ve eaten off the cheese plate. Bonus round- no one knows about that first bottle you took down at home! So let’s pop a some cava and cheers to yet another Happy Thanksgiving! This year, impress the entire family with Los Bermejos sparkling Rosado from Lanzarote in the Canary Islands. It’s exotic and volcanic, zippy and fruity with just the right touch of texture and creaminess to keep your dad from announcing it’s not actually Champagne. Thank you, Canary Islands.

When the Family Asks if You Have a Boyfriend-

“Ya, I’m still single, Grandma, no I don’t have any kids, yes I know how old I am.” This excruciating line of questioning means it’s time to grab a bottle DaTerra Viticultures ‘Erea de Vila,’ snatch that entire bowl of Grandma Jewell’s crab dip and head to the TV to watch basketball for a while. The Erea de Vila is comprised of mostly old vine Godello from the hills of Ribeira Sacra. It’s got texture, minerals, fruit and herbs. It’s begging for salty chips and dip, that cream cheese salami thing my mom makes and hot men in basketball shorts. (RIP, Grandma Jewell.)

When Aunt Mary Starts to Get Drunk-

Finally, let’s get this party started. Aunt Mary is getting tipsy, she’s stepped outside for her first cigarette and it’s time to switch to red. Borja Perez Ignios Orígenes ‘Vijariego Negro’ is what you’ve been waiting for all morning. It’s the kind of wine you want to sit in the corner and talk dirty to, the kind of wine you want to share with Aunt Mary so she’ll tell you colorful stories of driving AC Transit through East Oakland 30 years ago. It’s fruity, giving and full of tamarind deliciousness without asking anything in return. It goes down so easy you’ll be tempted to drink the whole bottle right there. Save some for dinner, though, this wine may pair perfectly with Grandma Finley’s candied yams. (RIP, Aunt Mary.)

Thanksgiving Dinner- 

Ok, the jig is up, I really dislike Thanksgiving dinner. It’s so brown and gravied and mashed and cooked. All I can do is pray to the gods someone made a kale salad, or that someone hands me a tortilla so I can eek out a turkey taco. But whatever sort of bread crumbly thing I’m forced to endure, I’m keeping a bottle of 2016 Fazenda Prádio MRZ by my side and dreaming of pulpo and the Miño river hot springs. This candied fruit, graphite and slightly peppered little number has the power to make me ignore the fact that I hate mashed potatoes and that my little brother just stole all of the dark meat. I only say 2016 because I worked the harvest that year, this wine is fly in any vintage. Pro tip: keep your glass full of this Merenzao so when Grandpa Doug busts out the Silver Oak you are covered. (RIP, Grandpa Doug.)

 

This blog is dedicated to my whole family. To the ones who have passed, to the ones who can’t be here and to the ones who are braving the storm.

Happy Holidays.

Blogged At: My Condo, East Oakland

Soundtrack: SIR 

 

 

The Tarot and the Wine

In an effort to practice self care, a prescription given to me by so many as of late, I decided to go for a little tarot reading and a two hour facial last Saturday. The usual. And if it seems like a two hour facial is a little intense, well, you should have been at the tarot reading. Let’s just say some sage was burnt, some aura was sprayed and some tears were shed. I’m not sure if it constituted as “self care,” but it definitely gave me something to write about. So here is a tiny portion of my tarot reading, in no particular order and and as it pertains to wine. Because if it actually pertains to real life, I’m just not in the mood.

The Tarot and the Wine

Lust- The lust card is about passion, energy and power. It’s and living life in the moment and mastering your inner animal. The card usually features a woman looking into the jaws of a lion, as if she doesn’t find consequence in being eaten or has somehow already tamed the beast. The card also represents passion, and the proof when we work at it hard, it pays off in the end. My logical brain thinks this card was drawn for someone else, but I don’t think the logical brain is supposed to be used here.

The Viños Ambiz ‘Alba’ from Sierra de Gredos is a lusty little number. The grape is albillo- natural, raw and unfiltered. At first it is guarded, closed off. But an exercise in patience finds it wildly expressive and virtually untamed. Maybe you don’t want to wait for it, maybe it’s not worth your time. Maybe in a month you may wonder why you were obsessing over it in the first place. But one day you’ll find yourself drinking it again and leaping right back in to the mouth of the lion. Nothing worth it is ever easy.

The Lovers- Some say the Lovers card is that of true, grounded love. It is a card of harmony and and attraction, of impenetrable bond. Others say the lovers is a card of choice- a choice between two women, a choice between things that are opposing and mutually exclusive. A choice between what’s in front of you and what’s seemingly divine. Can’t you see these things are the same?

For the Lovers, I’m drinking Alfredo Maestro ‘Lovamor,’ albillo from Ribera del Duero. Yes, Ribera del Duero pumps out some delicious white wine despite its obsession with full-bodied reds. Alfredo Maestro is a super power in Castilla y León, making fresh, natural, clean delicious wines from Ribera down to Madrid. If you are not riding his train already, I suggest you hop on. The Lovamor takes seven days of skin contact like a true professional, offering structure and a power as needed. In true form of the Lovers, it is harmonized by fresh acidity, stone fruit and white flower aromas. Plus the label shows a Little Red Riding Hood giving the Wolf a kiss, which reminds me of someone I know.

The Fool- The fool represents the beginning of something that is largely unknown. It is a leap of faith that can violate logic and twist your reality. It is unbearably innocent and super naive, a fearless foot forward in unknown situations. Be careful, however, the fool drawn reversed is a sure sign of stupidity, and clear evidence someone is taking advantage. Remember to keep one eye open and one hand on your glass. And always stay in control.

Now for an entire magnum full of fearless feet forward-3 Porcs ‘Uic Uic.’ Born after Francesc Ferré (Celler Frisach), Oriol Artigas (Oriol Artigas) and Alberto Domingo (Celler Tuets) took a van on a 7 day road trip. A small amount of showering and a large amount of guy stuff dubbed these guys the ‘3 Porcs.’ Garnatxa blanca from Terra Alta, pansa blanca from Alella and parellada from the Penedès are blended together to form the Uic Uic. The guys switch facilities each year, and this years tank, fermented in the region of Alella, grew an accidental layer of flor. It’s this kind of reckless abandon and leap into the unknown that takes the Fool to a whole new level. I have some at 3 Porcs at Bellota, come drink and let’s see what happens.

The Chariot- The Chariot card represents experience, travel or taking life by the reigns. In some decks there are no reigns, just the power of the mind to control what lies ahead. It’s almost a hero card- reflecting freedom, control and a power you may have just gained in work or in life. It is a card that requires mad respect. The moment my reader suggested I travel, the Chariot flew right out of her shuffle and on top of my reading. I promptly explained I’d be in Cadíz this April.

Looks like my next Chariot is taking me to Sherry country, to that mystical sunset in Cadíz. Bodega Forlong ‘La Fleur’ is my newest obsession in the sherry department. Forlong keeps it the oldest type of old school. La Fleur is an unfortified sherry, aged under flor in a single barrel rather than a solera. They dry their palomino sherry must in the sun, and use this deep concentration to keep the flor alive and well in the barrel. Their organic, chalky albariza soils throw some major minerality in the mix. This wine is salty, rich, raw and laser focused all at once. Concentrated and mineral and a straight up delight to drink through your whole meal. I can’t wait to take my Chariot back to visit this spring. 

Ace of Swords- Congratulations. The Ace of Swords means you’re about to cut through a whole lot of bullshit. It represents a breakthrough of power and intellect. It’s a sign to leave old stuff behind, to carve a path for what’s ahead and to take back what’s yours. It constitutes a time to set goals and is a clear cut suggestion you are about to slay. The card’s double edged sword carries a wreath on its point and is shown hovering over land and sea, a symbol your new found power can conquer lands both near and far.

And my favorite place to conquer both land and sea, to make major breakthroughs and to whip out my proverbial sword? Obviously Galicia. For this type of breakthrough, I’m going to one of my main men in the Ribeiro, Luis Anxo Rodriguez. Luis is a boss, a believer in Ribeiro and a catalyst for all those beautiful, indigenous grape varietals you see in the wines of Galicia today. He championed the revival of nearly extinct varietals and was among the first to plant grapes like ferrol, caiño longo and bracellao (thanks, bud). His A Torno ‘Dos Pasas’ Tinto has a permanent spot on both my wine list and in my heart, as he and I drank it together at a table outside his winery. It fits the bill for most of our food and impresses the novice on down to the wine geek.

Enjoy the wine. The tarot, though let’s not do that again. Vale.

Blogged at: My house

Soundtrack: Soul Queen, Aretha Franklin

 

Wines to Pair With the 2018 World Series

Yes I suppose I’m a little late to the game here, mostly in a literal sense. But the hurt and rejection I’ve felt since that One Game Wild Card has sent me right into the arms of the Warriors, without once looking back. Tis’ the season of the Fall Classic, however, and my love for the great game of baseball requires I pair it with a little Spanish wine. So without further prattling over love lost…

Wines to pair with the 2018 World Series

For the Red Sox Fan– Look. I haven’t like the Red Sox since they took us out in the 2003 AL Division Series, when I decided to hate them even more than the Yankees. But, as any A’s fan should, I’ve learned over much deliberation and Coors Light, that it is simply just our fault. And although we’ve given them so many of our young players over the years, I do want to thank them for the Josh Reddick and Brandon Moss kinds of seasons, where games at least turned fun again. Plus a couple of my favorite people are Red Sox fans. I think for this erratic sort of relationship, we should drink a funky, erratic sort of wine. The Escoda-Sanahuja ‘La Llopetera’ should work just fine. Sometimes it’s elegant and sexy, sometimes it’s barnyardy AF, but I always seem like it in the end. It’s made of Pinot Noir, which is not indigenous to Conca de Barberà and I typically doesn’t roll on my wine list. But I tend to make exceptions for things I like.

For the Dodger Fan– Hey ya’ll, you let me live in your fantastic city, very close to Dodger Stadium, for almost 2 years. In that time I went to a lot of Dodger games, drank a lot of Micheladas and even got to see my boy, Yoenis Cespedes knock a couple balls in the playoffs. This isn’t to say I want you to win, though. Do you think I’ve forgotten about 1988? I do miss my Dodger fans something fierce up here, and look forward to every visit and every glass of bubbles we drink at Cafe Stella. So for my beloved friends in blue, the Can Sumoi ‘Ancestral Sumoll’ is a perfect fit. This delicious, zero zero semi-sparkler is made from the sumoll varietal and grown in the hills of the Penedès. It’s half way bubbly, all the way delicious and best drunk out of Porrón. See you soon, Los Angeles.

When Manny Machado Comes Up to Bat- Gosh I hate Manny Machado. Anyone who throws a baseball bat at my boys should probably go down in flames. But of course, this angsty little dude is playing World Series baseball, so let’s down a little vino when Manny comes up to bat. For Manny, I’m going straight to the Priorat for sheer brut force and the power to fight back. Mas Martinet ‘Camí Pesseroles’ is my drink of choice here. It’s herbal, dark, powerful and elegant. It’s like one of those warm, summer night games in Oakland, where we are about to lose but win in a walk off in the 9th. It says I see you, I don’t forget you, but I’m certainly stronger than you.

The Win- Ok I honestly don’t care who wins here. If the Red Sox win, maybe I can hear less about Tom Brady. If the Dodgers win, maybe they’ll stop playing that old ass Kirk Gibson footage. Either way, I’ll be excited when this series is over and we can look forward to Spring Training in February. So for that tiny glimmer of hope, I’m drinking my number one stunner right now- Matías i Torres Negramoll. Grown on the little island of La Palma in the Canaries, the Negramoll has the red wine power to keep me warm on winter nights, with the style and playfulness of summer love and baseball diamonds. It’s all I can ask for, really.

Happy World Series, everyone

Blogged at: Home

Soundtrack: A Star is Born Soundtrack (leave me alone, ok)

 

 

 

 

¡Las Canarias!

I recently answered a questionnaire about what wines I was going to drink for the Holidays, and Canary Islands Wines were at the top of my list. So I figured if I’m going to lug these puppies around to every holiday party in leu of a bad Tinder date, I had better let you know just what they’re made of.

The Canary Islands

The Canary Islands sit a little over 60 miles off the coast of Morocco. They are a collection of 7 Islands formed by the Mid Oceanic Ridge, set atop the African Plate and geographically part of Africa. But since a couple of Spanish “mergers and acquisitions” in the 15th century, they have remained the southernmost region of Spain and the most tropical region in all of Europe. Each island has its own microclimate, range of elevations and terrains- most of which could be easily mistaken for sets for the original Star Trek. There are deserts, greenery, forests and rivers running through the islands. Black, ashy, volcanic rock makes up most soils. The island of Lanzarote, with underground volcanic caverns and rows of holes dug in volcanic soil for vines to grow, is a dead ringer of the Planet Vulcan from the original Star Trek Motion Picture. It is this Sci-Fi looking terrain, the myriad of tropical beaches and the tall volcanic mountains that make the Canary Islands an extremely popular tourist spot, a mad place to take a vacation and a pretty fly place to grow wine.

Like most of Spain, the Canaries have had ebbs and flows of wine making that has dated back centuries. They have had the unique pleasure of being untouched by phylloxera, the pesky little aphid that killed nearly all the vines in Europe in the 19th century. They did, however, encounter a plague of powdery mildew that overtook the vines for nearly a century. For this reason, Canary Island wines were essentially unknown to the rest of the world until a few decades ago. Much wine from the islands still doesn’t make it to the US. The wines that do make it here are highly sought after, regarded for the distinctiveness and complexity that is made possible by high altitudes, volcanic soils and old vines. The wines seem to be quickly growing in popularity among wine geeks as of late, and I wouldn’t doubt more island opportunities are heading our way. 

The Islands

Of the Canary Island wines that make it to the US, most come from the island of Tenerife. The altitudes here are among the highest in Spain, a giant volcano juts out of the middle of the island and ancient vines are twisted together in a gnarly braided looking vine system called ‘El Cordon Trenzado.’ The island of Lanzarote brings a good game, as well. Vines here are planted in a series holes in volcanic earth and surrounded by little stone walls to protect them from sharp island winds. These Vulcan-like terrains and volcanic, mineral soils add a salty, smokey element to the wines. La Palma, a personal favorite of mine, is a smaller island that houses forests in the north and a two major volcanoes in the middle. Extreme heat or gusty winds can be found within feet of each other and vines can be found twisted like the laurel wreaths of a Greek Goddess. Gran Canaria also houses its own mountainous volcanic peak, and vineyards are planted to high altitudes on rugged, volcanic soils. Red wines run the show here, and you can find Tintilla, the local variety of Trousseau, traipsing about. You can also find wines from the steep, terraced slopes El Hierro, namely in the wine room at Bellota, but production is small and finding these wines here is rare.

The Varieties

Grape varieties are mostly those indigenous to the islands, as the most varieties are planted on original rootstock. For blancos, Malvasía is an important one to mention, as a sweet style has been made since the 15th century. Dry Malvasía, Listán Blanco, Marmajuelo, Diego and Albillo are also grown depending on the island. For tintos, Listán Negro is among the more heavily planted varieties. Also found is Negramoll, Viariego Negro, Tintilla and other smatterings of indigenous varieties that are hard to pronounce and stand apart from most anything else.

The Wines

Envínate: Talk about ‘Started from the Bottom Now We’re Here,’ I bet at this point even Drake has had his hands on these wines. Envínate is set on high altitudes on the island of Tenerife. Three years ago I had my pick of the crop, and now this Canary juice is totally allocated. Come for the Taganan Blanco, stay for the Migan. Just hurry because I’m perpetually in danger of running out.

Matías i Torres: Yes, yes I have talked about this wine countless times. Victoria Torres is my Canary Island Queen, so deal with it. The Albillo is fire, and the Diego is complex and like nothing else you’ve tried. I hoard the Negramoll like I’m trying to get my episode on Viceland, but if you are reading this I’m likely to let you try any and all of them.

Borja Perez: Ok these wines are also hard to get but they are worth all the clawing and batting of eyelashes. The Viariego Negro tastes like tamarind and candied spice. It goes down super easy and makes me want to turn on ‘Like a Virgin’ with my besties and have a dance party in my living room. He does produce a label from grapes grown by local growers called ‘Artífice,’ which is also bomb and highly recommended by yours truly.

Los Bermejos: From the alien terruños of Lanzarote, Los Bermejos makes a ton of different styles from which to choose. Captain Spock and I are drinking the still and sparkling rosados as of late, so that’s probably the most logical way to go.

Suertes del Marqués: Grown on the slopes of the Pico del Teide volcano on Tenerife, the Suetes del Marqués wines are elegant, sophisticated and extremely expressive of the volcanic terruño. The vines are the super old, low yielding braided Cordon vines. He dabbles in a some natural and biodynamic practices and his wines are en fuego.

Frontón de Oro: Major shout out to Frontón de Oro, as they are the first Canary Islands wine I tried back in my days at St Vincent. The Listán Negro is super light and peppery, but try to get your hands on some Tintilla- the Canary Islands version of Trousseau.

You can get most of these bad boys at Bellota, so come drink with me. Live Long and Prosper.

Blogged at: My Condo

Soundtrack: Khalid, Suncity

 

Vulcan

 

Lanzarote

 

 

 

Wines to Pair with the NBA Finals: 2018 Edition

NBA Finals Oakland. One of my favorite versions of the bustling metropolis, the ever-evolving, the rapidly extravagant city that (as of now) hosts the 5 time Champion Golden State Warriors. Even Ice Cube was at the Lake Chalet in Oakland this morning, signaling that everyone wants a piece of this amazing city and that Today will in fact, be a Good Day. Now without further ado…

Wines to Pair with the 2018 NBA Finals.

China Klay

I’ve heard it said, the most dependable, possibly the best player on the Warriors squad is “China Klay.” After letting it all hang out over his two week stint China this summer, Klay Thompson taught the world what it’s like to ‘do you’, and absolutely slay. And while I hope Klay refrains from the Dim Sum over the next few weeks, I feel perfectly comfortable watching the Finals with a batch of soup dumplings and a bottle of Celler La Salada ‘Roig Boig.’ Roig Boig is a hodge podge of indigenous, nearly extinct varieties from the Penedès region of Spain. Farmed and vinified organically, made in the Petillant style and so delicious with dumplings I’m surprised China Klay wasn’t spraying it all over the Rockets Locker room.

The Steph Shimmy

I named our sherry flight at Bellota after Steph Curry, so it only makes sense to drink the sherry while we watch our boy do the shimmy. For a delicious bottle of briny Manzanilla, look to Alexander Jules ‘8/41.’ Alexander Russan is an importer, a winemaker and an extremely proficient sherry barrel selector. He scours the Sherry Triangle for exceptional sherry barrels, buys them from the sherry house solera and bottles them for my (and your) consumption. (Should any of these words confuse you, reread my previous Sherry blog.) We have this wine by the glass at Bellota so be sure to quaff some down bar-side before a game.

The Hamptons 5

I have high hopes for Iguadala’s return, so when the Hampton’s Five takes the court this Finals, let’s all get fancy. I myself have never been to the Hamptons, but were I to go to this popular seaside celeb hangout, I’d take a delicious bottle of Envínate ‘Palo Blanco.’ The Palo Blanco is made from 100 year old vine Listan Blanco, grown of the steep hillsides of Tenerife, Las Canarias. It’s a relatively rare wine, more thoughtful than most celebrity types and such a great example of terruño you may not even notice Kanye West walking past you. Rumor has it, it may even be the wine they drank when seducing Durant into playing with us. We may never know.

The LeBron Show

Fine fine, LeBron James is kind of an anomaly. And after four finals and a number of Christmases together, he knows how to show off for the Warriors. When its time to sit back and watch him get crazy, I’ll be sipping on a grippy, muscular glass of 2013 Clos Martinet from the Priorat. Dark fruit, tobacco and slate to answer back LeBron’s uncanny ability to put up so many points. Hopefully my dad will have grilled up a steak and my dog will have readied her earmuffs.

The Big Win

Whether LeBron gets crazy or not, I’ve got to count on another Oakland win. For this year’s festivities, I’m drinking a bottle of Clos Lentiscus ‘Xarel.lo Xpressió.’ Winemaker, Manel Avinyó adds rosemary honey from the estate’s Bee Farm to start the secondary fermentation- giving the wine a creamy, bees-waxy flavor and texture. White flowers, jasmine, rocky terruño, herbs and a delicious nuttiness make up the flavor components of this champagne style sparkler. Last year I was in Spain when we won, silently crying and yelling from my wonderful accommodations with my friends at Succés Vinícola. This year, I plan on popping the top off this sucker right here in Oakland- just as soon as I see Steph kissing that Larry O’Brien Trophy. GO DUBS!!!

 

PS- All of these wines are on the wine list at Bellota, which is where I work now, which I swear we’ll talk about as soon as I get time. I’ve missed you.

 

Blogged At: Bellota SF

Soundtrack: (Spotify Radio)- Flow with it (You Got Me Feeling Like)

Sherry. Because the best things in life are rarely easy.

Back in my hay day I did some pretty solid, pretty fly bartending at the neighborhood Applebees in Livermore, California. We had this bottle of Harvey’s Bristol Cream Sherry in the corner that for years lay unopened, lonely and lifeless. One slow afternoon, however, my Applebuddies and I decided to crack that bad boy open and discover what lurked inside. It was how it sounds- creamy, super sweet, somewhat offensive, largely repulsive and invariably responsible for decades of Americans turning their heads at this delicious table wine. In addition to the false,  syrupy sweet reputation Sherry has obtained, it also has the misfortune of being more difficult to explain than Greedo shooting first. Fortunately, we now live in a universe where Sherry is praised by somms, where wine bars and restaurants alike are working to change its reputation, and where I’m here to answer all your burning questions.

—Because I strive for brevity, I’ll use this post to talk about dry styles of Sherry only. We’ll talk about the sweet stuff on a day where I’m feeling, well, sweeter.

The Location

At its core, Sherry is a fortified wine that comes from one of three towns in the Andalucía community of Southern Spain- a region dubbed by wine geeks as “The Sherry Triangle.” The three towns that make up The Sherry Triangle are Jerez de la Frontera (‘Jerez’), El Puerto de Santa María (‘El Puerto’) and Sanlucar de Berrameda. They lie fairly close to each other, yet each town boasts its own micro-climate, and each micro-climate brings its own distinct flavor to the wines.

The Grapes

There are three grapes allowed in Sherry production: Palamino Fino, Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel. Palamino Fino is the number one stunner, the star of the show, the total ball hog. It makes up 95% of all Sherry production, it is responsible for all styles of Sherry that are not considered sweet and it’s the only grape we are going to talk about today. It grows mostly in a soil called albariza- a white, chalky, limestone rich soil accredited with giving a neutral grape like Palamino Fino its pazaz.

The Science

There are a few elements that make sherry the delicious beast that it is. One of these main elements is the Solera System. When you walk into a sherry bodega, it doesn’t look like your average winery. The floor is covered with a layer of dirt and sand so barrels can be sprayed with water. The ceilings are high, encouraging sea breeze and salty sea air to waft through the bodega. The sherry barrels are stacked directly on top of each other, typically three or more barrels high and often times in very long rows to create what’s known as the Solera System. The Solera System is a method of fractionally blending newer vintages into older vintages in such a way that the finished product is a blend of all the ages. As the Solera ages, so does the average age of the wine. Solera itself literally means “on the ground” or “floor”, and it refers to a stack of barrels that pull wine gradually from top of the stack (the newest vintages) to the bottom of the stack (the oldest vintages.) No container is ever drained, so some of the earlier product always remains in each barrel. 

Another main element is a special thing that happens in the Sherry triangle, mostly due to weather and proximity to the ocean. The conditions in this specific region of Spain cause a layer of ambient yeast, called flor, to grow naturally on the surface of the wines. This layer, or veil, of flor is the main contributor to the flavor of every dry style of sherry except for oloroso. Flor is what gives sherry the intensely unique, insanely briny and extremely dry flavor profile found in fino and manzanilla- two types of sherries that spend their life under this veil of yeast. 

The Styles

Fino and Manzanilla- These guys got the flor. Both finos and manzanillas are aged entirely under flor. They are the driest wines in the world, as that layer of yeast manages to suck up any notion of creaminess or body attached to the wine. Full on flor power leaves you with an insane salinity and a complete dryness. The difference between a fino and a manzanilla is solely geographical. Fino can come from both Jerez and El Puerto. Manzanilla can only come from the seaside town of Sanlucar de Barrameda, where the weather doesn’t fluctuate as much throughout the year, and the sea breeze infuses the sherries with intense flavors of salty sea air. Style wise- manzanilla is typically leaner than fino, but it varies from producer to producer. Drink this wine as a palate cleanser and with salty foods like olives and jamón. Or get a fuller style of fino and drink it with your whole meal.  Pro somm tip– this style of fully aging under flor is called ‘biological aging.’

Amontillado- So amontillado starts it’s life under flor, but after a certain amount of time (at least two years by law), the cellar master breaks the veil of yeast by further fortifying the wine, leaving the wine to age in the barrel, fully exposed to oxygen, for a good amount of time before being bottled.  Some of the finer amontillados will live for eight or ten years under flor, giving the wine this beautiful dry, salty flavor as a base and then layering it with the nutty richness caused by aging and exposure to oxygen. Amontillados can be served with roasted nuts, richer sauces, full on meals and savory desserts.

Palo Cortado- A somewhat confusing category, palo cortado is similar to an amontillado, but more of a freak accident then a planned event. It is a rare style that the cellar master has chosen to be a fino, accidently loses its flor to become an amontillado, but somehow takes on a flavor profile more like that of an oloroso. Although every bodega differs, the flavor is generally more like that of an oloroso- complex, roasted and velvety while maintaining some of the salty characteristics of a fino. Palo cortado has gained a fair amount of popularity over the past few years, and a lot of houses are manipulating its rare style. For the real deal palo cortado holyfield, stick to your trusted wine shop and your trustee, ultra knowledgable sommelier. 

Oloroso- Oloroso is kind of the yang to fino’s yin. It’s the Han Solo to Princess Leia. While fino is delicate and lean, oloroso is bigger and more bulky. Oloroso lives its whole life without seeing flor, therefore aging oxidatively in the barrel for years and years. The more the wine evaporates as it ages, the higher the alcohol content gets. Most olorosos clock in at about 20% alcohol, some even higher, and they develop a distinctly bronze to chestnut brown color. The best olorosos should be dry to off dry. Sweet olorosos are typically not the business. Olorosos have aromas of figs and nuts, and are velvety and complex on the palate. Drink for or with desserts or rich foods.  Pro somm tip- this style of aging without flor is called ‘oxidative aging.’

Despite the fact this is probably my longest post, this only begins to touch on the world of sherry. For complete, geeky and easy to read info on the subject, read Talia Baiocchi’s book, Sherry or Peter Liem’s book, Sherry, Manzanilla & Montilla Follow these cats on Instagram, too.

Blogged at: Anina, SF

Soundtrack: J.I.D The Never Story