Wine 2016 Celler Frisach ‘Sang de Corb’
- Region: Tarragona, Catalunya
- DO: Terra Alta
- Varietal: Garnatxa Negra, Garnatxa Peluda, Samsó
- How it’s Made: 2 week maceration, settles in tank, aged in 400L barrel for 1 yr
- Farming and Such: Organic, very low sulfur
Well, I nailed all three wines this week in the Friday Blinds (wut wut), but the one I had to contemplate the most before decision was the Celler Frisach ‘Sang de Corb.’
What can I say that I haven’t already said about Francesc and his brother, Joan? When I think of these guys, I think of dancing and drinking gintonics til 4am, staining my hands making Ratafia with weed trimmings and jumping on them in excitement in the middle of the Mission when they were here a couple months ago. I picked Garnatxas for them with people from Germany, Pakistan and Morocco and walked through the town of Corbera d’Ebre to see the richness and the rubble of the Battle of Ebro- the longest and bloodiest battle of the Spanish Civil War.
These kids and their “redneck” town and their far from “redneck” wine go deep inside my feels. So if we haven’t talked about it enough…
Let’s Roll…
The winery of Celler Frisach is located in the town of Corbera d’Ebre- a town complete with a major historical landmark, a punk metal dive bar and an old man cafe where local men drink and stare at an American with a laptop like a cheetah in a cheetah exhibit. Francesc’s vineyards are planted to multiple plots in DO Terra Alta, his hectares under vine are properly expanding as he tries to talk the older generation into relinquishing plots and letting him and his brother take over.
In DO Terra Alta, Garnatxas of all colors and types reign king, and Francesc has spent the last ten plus years trying to perfect each and every one. The Sang de Corb is a blend of Garnatxa Negra, Garnatxa Peluda and Samsó (aka carinyena)- all varieties of Spanish origin still found all over various parts of Spain.
Let’s Talk Peluda
Garnatxa and Carinyena are a given. Garnatxa Peluda, however, is another monster. Garnatxa Peluda is a fuzzy variance of Garnatxa Negra. It is fuzzy in that the underside of the leaves have a peach-like fur on them, and fuzzy in that the origin of the varietal differs depending on who’s waxing poetic. Some farmers say it is an older version of Garnatxa Negra, some wine geeks say it is a mutation or the result of the plant adapting to hotter conditions. Either way, this hairy little varietal is slightly more vigorous than Garnatxa Negra and a little less prone to damage from the high winds and weather that blow through Terra Alta. The fuzzy leaves protect vines from water loss and detract sunlight. Wines from Garnatxa Peluda are lower in alcohol, higher in acidity and lighter in color than those of Garnatxa Negra. All sorts of delish.
The Garnatxa Negra, Garnatxa Peluda and Samsó for the Sang de Corb come from a single vineyard in Corbera d’Ebre, right across the river from the winery. It was one of the first vineyards to be planted after the town was destroyed by the Civil War. Bullet shells and the like can still be found throughout the vineyard. The grapes are co-fermented on the skins for two weeks, transferred to stainless steel to settle further and then transferred to 400 liter barrels for 1 year. The wine is then thrown in the bottle and aged for another year before it gleefully makes its way to the rest of the universe. The wine tastes of red fruit, all spice and violets. Great acidity and a little oak structure for a nice backbone. Body like a champ and full of elegance.
Soils are calcareous clay with a little river rock from the nearby Ebro River. We discussed calcareous clay last week, but should you need a little refresher…calcareous an adjective referring to something that is made up in part or whole of calcium carbonate and referring to limestone and chalk. Calcareous soils remain at cooler temperatures, produce more sap in the vines and offer low sugar and high acidity in the berries.
Blood of Crows (so metal)
Sang de Corb and its detailed label is an homage to the people of Corbera d’Ebre. Corbera d’Ebre translates to rookery of crows, as the people of the town refer to themselves as a colony of crows. Sang de Corb means blood of crows, and is a way to honor the 250,000 people who went to battle against Franco, the people who died trying to save the town and the people who have lived to see its reconstruction. The words ‘Lo Vi Fa Sang’ found on the label literally translate to the wine makes blood, possibly more aptly explained as the wine being the energy and the lifeblood that flows through the soldiers to the wifes to the farmers and the new generation of Corbera d’Ebre. Drink the wine, regain your energy, feel the force. Also featured on the label are the words “Cel Ras i Oratge Sec,” meaning clear sky dry weather. Francesc imagines the moment before the big battle when the skies were clear, the weather was dry and the energy from the wine was in full swing. Francesc is a badass. Drink, Drink, Drink.
Lo Vi Fa Sang.
Blogged at: Bellota
Soundtrack: Paellaaa!!!!